‘I run a tight shipwreck’: On The River Tavern opens under new, experienced management

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There has been a lot of confusion and speculation over the past two years about the riverside restaurant at 600 Fishermans Road in St. Joseph, and the new management wants to wipe the slate clean – in more ways than one.

When Brian Steed was hired as the general manager at the new On the River Tavern, he understood the restaurant had a somewhat tumultuous last couple of years, with public accusations of previous management on social media in March 2021 as well as an abrupt and unexplained closure in November.

Steed, who opened the restaurant for beverage service in mid-July as he looks for kitchen staff, said he is none-too-concerned with all of that drama.

“I haven’t heard too much and I’m not really asking,” Steed said. “It’s none of my business. … I’m like Switzerland over here, I’m not trying to get involved.”

As a 37-year veteran of the restaurant industry – including 17 as an owner – Steed is more focused on moving forward with the ownership group and using his experience in the industry to operate the restaurant the right way.

“I run a tight shipwreck,” Steed joked. “I’ve been a manager, a janitor, a short order cook, bartender, waiter – I’ve done it all. … [Ownership] is giving me a lot of room to do what I think is best for this place. With all my years of doing this, I think it’s got everything it needs. All the pieces of the puzzle are there, we just have to put it together.”

 

Fresh Start

For Steed, wiping the slate clean also takes on a literal meaning. From a deep cleaning of the restaurant to a kitchen remodel, he is making sure On The River Tavern is operating up to his standards.

“It looked like a deep cleaning hadn’t been done in a while,” Steed said. “We cleaned this place end to end.”

Other changes include moving the draft beer system, clearing out some space at the end of the bar, adding new chairs to the river deck and updating some mechanical and plumbing upgrades.

Steed said the time it has taken to complete all those projects – coupled with the staffing shortage affecting many local business – are the main reasons On The River Tavern opened in mid-July and not earlier.

“We kind of ran out of summer here, unfortunately,” Steed said. “We certainly want to be year-round. We want to do lunch and dinner. We want to have a late-night menu. … But it really depends on customer base and business demand.”

One of the main hurdles for Steed in the early going has been the lack of available staff, leading to the decision to open just for beverages.

“Everybody’s hiring and nobody’s really wanting to work seemingly,” he said. “Other than that, we’re ready to go. I could even start cranking out some food myself, but I’ve got to be back here to bartend. So, we’re kind of starting slow and building our way up.”

The clean slate also applies to Steed personally. He and his wife just sold their home in Illinois and are looking for a home nearby. While Steed is not yet a permanent resident, he said he is very familiar with the area, has family nearby and used to be a frequent patron of Barney’s Boathouse, which formerly occupied the building.

“My wife and I love Michigan,” Steed said. “We’ve been wanting this for 20 years or more. There’s nothing about this area we don’t like … It’s just getting to know the people.”

Along those lines, Steed said he wants the entire community to visit OTR Tavern, regardless of their previous experiences.

“I invite the entire area – St. Joe, Benton Harbor and all the surrounding area,” he said. “Even our detractors, come on in and give us a try. We’ve got to work out the kinks, but we’ll get there. We’ll be good.”

 

Future Plans

In addition to opening the kitchen and offering a late-night menu, Steed has other plans for On The River Tavern, including additional boat service, improvements to the patio, a rooftop deck and bringing in live music.

Steed, a self-proclaimed Jimmy Buffet “Parrot Head,” is also in the process of bringing in décor from his old establishments over the years, including some select Buffett memorabilia. Ownership, he said, is also talking about a separate cigar bar attached to the building.

“The potential here is too impressive,” he said. “It’s astounding what could be done here. … Just the traffic with the boats could be its own business.”

While OTR Tavern already has the license to serve individuals on their boats, Steed said he wants to get to the point of selling beer, pop, ice and other boating supplies to-go. For now, Steed said OTR Tavern opens at about 4 p.m., but hours are subject to change as staff is hired.

“I’m excited,” he said. “A little nervous like anybody would be – COVID has really flipped everything up on its head. But I’m just crazy enough, or dumb enough, to think I can pull this off. But it’s not a magic trick that needs to be pulled off. It’s going to take a lot of work, and I’m in it for the long haul.”

By Ryan Yuenger
ryany@wsjm.com